Painting N scale cast metal vehicles

Because the airbrush is our application of choice, the information contained here within is written with that in mind. However much of the information can be applied to the various methods of painting vehicles. There are three primary application methods that can be considered: airbrushing, spray painting, and hand brushing. You can use one type of application or a combination of all three. I find that using an Airbrush for the overall paint job works best for giving adequate coverage without filling up details or detail lines with paint. Brush on paint works very well for tail lights, bumpers, door handles etc. When I am finished painting my model I will use clear matte spray (from the spray can) to finish off my work.

Special tools or materials that will improve your work

• Optical visor or magnifying glasses
• Xacto knife standard #11 blade
• Micro brush

Beginning

The first step prior to painting is the inspection stage. In this stage you are looking for burs and flashing that may get in the way of a good paint job. You will always find burs and flashing on cast models, however some are more noticeable than others. It is part of the production process. The burs are usually found on a thick portion of the model (this is where the material flows into fill the part in the production stage). The flashing is usually found in the windows or at the edges of the model and is a result of material flowing beyond the boundaries of the parting line of the parts cavity creating an excess of thin unwanted material. Removing a bur or flashing is usually as simple as scraping it away carefully with a hobby knife, blade, or small file. Inspect your model and remove any unwanted burs or flashing. After you have completed this you move on to the next step.

Pre-paint cleaning

This is an important step because many times your model has been handled prior to you getting the kit. From the production stage to being displayed at the hobby shop there are many opportunities for dust and oil to accumulate on the model. One of the ways to clean your model that we prefer is with liquid soap and water. An uncontaminated toothbrush can also help in this process but is not required.

Choosing the type of application

There are a few good ways to paint your vehicles. I will list a few of the ways that I have found work well. Using an airbrush for painting seems to be the most effective way to paint the vehicles. The next best alternative is with spray paints and of coarse there is the brush. The brush-on method can be used but is probably the hardest of all application types. A good knowledge of brush types, paint types, and retarders are necessary. Once you have made a choice on what type of application you will use move on to the next decision.

Time saving tip

I usually paint more than one vehicle at a time because it is a much more effective use of time and energy. Because I prefer an airbrush for painting, I find that I spend 15 to 30 minutes just cleaning up, regardless of how many vehicles I paint. This is why I recommend painting more than one at a time.

Choosing paint

Besides choosing the color that you want you will find a couple of other choices to make when it comes time to choose the paint. The first choice is whether you want a water base or a solvent based paint. They both have advantages, although they are not intended to blend together. You can accomplish some unique results by using both on the same project. The second choice is flat paints, semi gloss, or gloss. As you become more familiualar with material choices you will also discover that there is paint additives that can add sheen to dull finishes. By mixing this additive to your paint you can proportionally rise the level of sheen.

Techniques and Materials for beginning Airbrush users

Choosing the best materials for a project can sometimes be like splitting hairs. On the other hand personal preferences and experience can make a significant difference in the outcome of a project, so if you are already painting with an airbrush you may have developed preferences. For someone starting out I recommend a flat paint. The flat paints seem to cover better and are generally easier to use. The next recommendation is to start with water based paint. I use Tamiya brand (my preference) however Testors works well also. The reason I like to recommend water-based paints is the simplicity of clean up. I use window cleaner for clean up and in between color changes. The disadvantage to using water-based paint is that they dry faster and harder than the solvent based paints. To manage this situation keep bottles full of Windex and run it through the air brush often during your project. By doing so you will lessen the chance of this problem. Also check the tip of the airbrush regularly during your project and remove any dried paint from the tip. Of coarse, when painting do so in a well ventilated area.

Keep it simple

Keep your paint schemes simple the first time. For example paint the chassis black and the body a color of your choice and the bed (if it is a truck) a contrasting color. You can dress it up with decals and stripes to achieve a more colorful appearance. If you keep it simple the first couple of times you are more likely to be successful. Develop your skill and confidence before attempting a multi colored prototype paint job. By the way, if you find that you are not happy with your results, you can strip the paint off and start over.

Trim

For many years automobile and truck manufactures have added trim to define and accentuate their vehicles, this is what makes them stand out from the rest and create their identity. If you want to make your vehicles stand out from the rest than you should do the same. Showcase Miniatures vehicles and a few other manufacturers of vehicles have highly detailed bodies that include the trim. Detailing this trim can sometimes be surprisingly simple.

Simulating brushed steel and chrome trim - By using the tip of a Xacto blade you can scrape paint from the trim. This method works exceptionally well on soft metal vehicles. By scraping away the paint from the trim you will expose the raw metal which gives you a bright silver color. This scraping method also is very effective at exposing emblems and nameplates.

Door and body panel separation lines - You will find cracks, crevasses, and lines all over an automobile or truck. These are usually the separating perimeters of body panel, components or doors. These details can be highlighted with a soft lead pencil. It is important that you use soft lead and light pressure when marking. To help the pencil lead guide itself while you carefully draw it around the body line, file the end of the pencil lead into a taper. The pencil lead fits more easily into the grooves if you do this. It will also follow protruding bodylines better.

Wheels tires and hub caps

To make the wheels stand out, try centering an appropriate size circle template to the wheel and lightly spray paint into the circle. Use very light coats of paint when using this method. Too heavy of a coat could cause the paint to run or bleed beyond the desired coverage area. Another method that works very well is by using a micro brush dipped into solvent. Take the solvent moistened micro brush and rub the inside wheel portion. The outside ring or rim of the wheel acts as a natural border keeping the solvent from removing the paint outside of the wheel. The solvent will soften the paint and cause it to stick to the micro brush. Wipe the unwanted paint off the micro brush by rubbing the brush across a dry paper towel. You may need to redip and clean the micro brush in solvent a few times before you reach the desired look.

Decals stripes and two tones - There is striping decals available from Microscale decals. They are available in many different colors and widths. Using these stripes can really create a neat vehicle. The real wide stripes can be used to create a two-tone paint job. This can work exceptionally well on N scale vehicles. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with the decals. There is a solution that goes on the decals that help it conform to all the protrusions and cracks.

Tail lights Door handles and headlights

Permanent markers work well for coloring tail lights on lighter colored vehicles. I like the permanent marker because it is rigid. Unfortunately the permanent inks do not work well with dark colored vehicles. Regular model paint works best for dark colors. Like a permanent marker a toothpick provides a very direct way of applying paint because it doesn't flex like a paintbrush. On the other hand if you are confident with a paintbrush, brushing provides a more smooth transfer of the paint.

Windows and window glazing

To fill in the windows and windshields of my vehicles I use Microscale krystal clear. Krystal clear comes with instructions on how to apply it specifically for the use of window glazing.

Protecting your work

It is always good practice to put a clear coat or matte finish when you are done. This protects your work by sealing all the decals and detail work you have performed.

In a worse case scenario

If the model you paint does not come out as well as you want, you can strip the parts with Flouquills paint remover and start over.

If the model you paint does not come out as well as you want, you can strip the parts with Flouquills paint remover and start over. (Floquil paint remover works well on plastic and metal models. We do not recomend it use for wood kits). If for some reason you cannot find some items or products mentioned here please let me know. Many of the tools and materials mentioned are available from a model hobby supply shop or directly from the Showcase Miniatures web site at www.showcaseminiatures.com.

Painting tips for structures

John Hawkins, who is one of our customers that purchased the Bartlett #109, offers the following information on how he finished this structure so that we could share it with you here at the Showcase Miniatures:

"I have omitted the cover over the loading area because I felt it would hide some of the details. I also added a two step staircase (Plastruct) from the loading dock up to what I suppose is the office door (Photo jpg.#1). Finally, I dry brushed the roof valleys with rust to simulate rusted tin rather than the tar paper valleys. (Photo jpg.#2)

The finish is almost completely by airbrush. The first thing I did was mask off the siding portion of the walls, then I airbrush the brick foundation with a red color. I then masked off the finished brickwork and air brushed the walls a basic dark gray. The exposed wall studs were brush painted a pale yellow to cover the gray from the airbrushing. Before installing the windows and trim, I dry brushed the walls with very light gray. The brick foundation was weathered with gray and earth color was painted along the bottom edge to represent mud splatter. naturally, the windows, doors, and corner trim were all air brushed prior to installation. The loading platform, piling, exposed studs, and the exposed interior walls were stained with black ink and alcohol."